First Documentation of Male Attire
Sculptures dating back as far as the 5th century lead us to believe that Bharatanatyam was well-refined as far back as then. Costuming for male dancers across classical Indian traditions today is still reflective of the attire carved into these ancient works, from necklaces and armbands to headpieces, anklets, and dhotis.
Dhotis
Dhotis are traditionally fashioned out of a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth that is wrapped around the legs and waist and knotted at the front or back. Contemporary dhotis, on the other hand, can be stitched apparel rather than folds of unstitched cloth. Dhotis can be plain or come in solid colours. They can also be silk with stitched borders.
Draped
The unstitched cloth typically ranges from 4 to 6 meters in length. It must be manually draped and tied around the waist, and it requires practice to drape correctly. Once mastered, though, the traditional dhoti is customizable across a range of draping styles based on regional or cultural preferences.
Stitched
A more modern version of the dhoti, stitched dhotis do not need to be draped onto the wearer. Instead, stitched dhotis come in a ready-to-wear format. While these dhotis lack the versatility of different draping styles, they provide a secure fit, reducing the risk of it coming undone.
Dhoti FAQ
What is the perfect length for a dhoti?
In the past, dhotis were much shorter. Though they tend to be longer today, individual artists might have their own preferences based on their bodies, the choreography, or the aesthetic of the piece.
Does the fan style matter?
Fan shapes come in various geometric patterns. They can be square, triangular, or angular in shape. Choosing the correct fan style and size influence the aesthetics of the performance. A dancer who has mastered the plié can benefit from a circular fan, one that fully expands and blooms when the dancer hits the perfect plié position. These types of fans (circular and pleated) also add to the audiences’ experience by highlighting the Aramandi position, arguably the most important position in Bharatanatyam.
What are the pleats for?
If you have mastered the plié, then pleats will showcase the fact. A perfect plié will elongate the fan, opening up the pleats, like a flower in full bloom.
How do you choose a material for your dhoti?
When it comes to dhotis, materialistic is the way to be. A lighter, softer material like chiffon adds fluidity to the performance as the dancer moves across the stage. A harder, more robust material, on the other hand, can enhance the solid, statuesque quality of different positions throughout the performance.
Makeup has remained a constant over the years, for both male & female dancers.
Makeup contributes to the divine or dramatic aura of a Bharatanatyam performance, transforming the dancer into a character, deity, or storyteller. It likewise enhances the emotional impact of the dance, which relies heavily on facial expressions, or Abhinaya. Makeup also ensures visibility of the dancers’ facial expressions to the audience on a large stage or under bright lights.
The purpose of the makeup is primarily to emphasize dancers’ facial expressions during a performance, and the makeup is used the same ways for both genders. Eyeliner and Kajal are used in excess to elongate and define the eyes, emphasizing the artists’ expressions, and red lips are worn to highlight lip movements during expressions and dialogues.
